Just when I thought there is a lack of interesting weekend places to see I discovered this little surprise. I am glad that I visited this rustic estate with a Michelin starred in the autumn, when the whole nature is painted with autumn tones, the sun, the scents of chestnuts and the irresistible taste of wine, from the well-known Collio region. But I believe that this place is a great to visit at any season.
After you reach Gorizia, you will find yourself on winding roads through the famous vineyards that offer the various sorts such as Sauvignon, Pinot and Merlot. After a 45-minute drive you will find a picturesque Italian village called Cormons, near which there is the Sirk family resort, under the name La Subida.
The estate grew up in the early 80s when Joško and Loredana, husband and wife, decided to make their dream come true. All they had was the legacy, old house and estate, which was left by the father of Josh. As this family empire grew soon three children, Mitja, Tanja and Erica joined them, and soon their better halves.
Today, they can be proud of this resort with modern interior, rustic exterior, embedded in pristine nature and the surrounding woods. Particular attention is paid to decorating details that give a special charm and show the long tradition of this place. The Subida has 17 accommodation units, each one special in its own way, and what are common is the spacious glass rocks that make you feel like you are part of the nature that surrounds you, and the warmth of the wood that makes the interior a real nudge. If you are a fan of long baths, here you will enjoy because almost every apartment has a large bathtub in the middle of the room, and you can even try bathing in honey and wine that will welcome you along with instructions for preparing a fragrant bath for the soul and body. For the couples who like to experience something special, La Subida has also prepared the real nest. Il nido (literally nest) is hidden in bush, in the woods itself, and it is customary for guests to get there during the night, after dinner, so arrival is a real experience. Not knowing what’s waiting them, this little warm, minimalist design, the wooden apartment is ideal because it offers the right isolation and intimacy with a view of the greenery of the trees.
During the summer, guests can refresh themselves in the outdoor pool, and for those adventurous spirits La Subida offers accommodation in the real “gipsy” style, outdoors. So you can book a room on the hammock, where you will have a comfortable bed with shade to serve as an extra space for rest, and the “luxurious” decoration with crystal glitter and some antique detail of the furniture. For the adventurous guests, the bathrooms are under the skies, and you can also refresh yourself in a bathtub set in the woods, along with wooden deck chairs.
What La Subidus additionally stands out is the top Michelin-starred restaurant, Trattoria al Cacciatore, and the more affordable L’Osteria offering almost the same good homemade cuisine. All food is home made and came directly from the estate, such as vinegar, or from neighbours involved in wine production and other delicacies. The specialities of the house are always seasonal, so we enjoyed the pudding, the ravioli stuffed with raspberries, the Italian dessert with chunks of chestnuts, mushrooms, apples and walnuts, and pork steaks with potatoes with spices. Among the sequences, the flavor is “washed” with lemon sorbet with the addition of Sirk Della Subida vinegar (grape wine).
As a further activity, La Subida offers guests bicycles and scooters, which can take you through the picturesque hills of the Collio region or even to the coast. Trieste is only 45 minutes away by car.
Also, the property has horses so you can spend the day with these elegant and loving animals. You can ride them with the instructor in the manege or on a spacious outdoor terrain.
During the day we visited a few small villages near Cormons. You will notice the similar architecture of smaller medieval towns along the narrow alleys and refurbished façades in pastel colors. We visited Gorizia, which is also specific because of the marked point of separation between Italy and Slovenia, there once existed a border and a fence, and today is the ideal place for the photo. On the way you will also find an imposing monument to the Italian soldiers who died during World War II – the Sacrario Militare di Oslavia. You can have the best Italian coffee in the town of Gradisca d’Isonzo or check the Castello di Spessa, which is only 15 minutes away from Cormons, and also offers an idyllic set of scenery. If you want to find out more about the legends of Il ponte del Diavolo Bridge and why the cats in this town become legends, go to Cividale del Friuli.